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Ohio's largest city, state capital and home to the massive Ohio State University, COLUMBUS is a likeable place to visit. Its position in the rural heart of the state also makes it the only center of culture for a good three-hour drive in any direction.
Ohio became a state in 1803, and after trying Zanesville and Chillicothe, legislators designated this former patch of rolling farmland on the high east bank of the Scioto River its capital in 1812. The fledgling city was built from scratch, and its considered town planning is evident today in broad thoroughfares and green spaces. Statuary forms another part of the cityscape, with monuments seemingly erected on any spare scrap of land, many of them of its namesake, Christopher Columbus ; there's even a replica of his ship, the Santa Maria , docked downtown on the Scioto River. For the 1992 quincentennial of the explorer's discovery of North America, some city officials erroneously felt that a full-scale celebration would put their city (which has lagged behind Cincinnati and Cleveland in terms of public recognition) on the map. It bombed, with Native American and other ethnic groups branding the festivities as exploitation.
After that failure to capture national recognition, city boosters have pinned their hopes on sport . The Columbus Crew of professional soccer (who play in the nation's first stadium built specifically for pro soccer) have a huge following. So do the Ohio State Buckeyes college football team, and the year 2000 brought in Ohio's first NHL hockey team, the Columbus Blue Jackets.
However, until Columbus does manage to make it big, it's best enjoyed for what it is - a lively college city with a smattering of good museums , some gorgeous Germanic architecture , and a particularly vibrant nightlife , including Ohio's most active gay scene . The spacious, orderly and easygoing downtown area holds several attractions and the giant Columbus City Center mall. The main entertainment districts - the bohemian Short North and the more mainstream Brewery District - are on the north and south fringes, respectively.
Port Columbus International Airport (tel 614/239-4083) is seven miles northeast of downtown. Taxis into the center cost around $16-18, while a cheaper alternative is a bus named the Capital City Flyer run by COTA ($5; tel 614/228-1776, ). Greyhound stops at East Town and Third streets. COTA also runs a good central bus service connecting downtown with German Village, the Short North and North Campus; a day pass costs $2.50. The main visitor center is at 90 N High St (Mon-Fri 9am-5.30pm; tel 614/221-CITY or 1-800/345-4FUN, , ), with another branch on the second level of the Columbus City Center mall, just south of the Ohio Statehouse at High and Rich streets (Mon-Sat 10am-9pm, Sun noon-6pm).
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